All the Royal Parks were closed today because of forecast high wind, so I went up the river to Hammersmith and walked through Chiswick to Barnes and back, taking only the small camera as I thought it would be too windy to use a long lens. In fact the wind was no more than a fresh breeze, barely enough to ruffle a Carrion Crow on a post near Hammersmith Bridge.
The present bridge was designed by the indefatigable and ubiquitous Sir Joseph Bazalgette and opened in 1887, replacing an earlier bridge of 1827 by Tierney Clarke which had been damaged by a boat running into it. The towers rest on Clarke's original foundations.
It is not one of Bazalgette's more successful works. The bridge towers stick out into the roadway, causing bottlenecks at both ends as you can see in this early photograph (though it was clearly taken later than 1900 as claimed where it's displayed on the bridge).
It was also not strong enough for modern traffic and has had to be closed for repairs several times, including a closure in 2000 after damage by an IRA bomb. In 2019 serious cracks were found, and since then it has been closed to motor traffic, though it remains open to pedestrians and cyclists. Repairs are under way at the usual glacial pace of modern works.
The tide was right out and you could walk on to the shore in several places. The backwater between Chiswick Eyot, a small and uninhabited island, had temporarily dried up, so you could look down it.
Mostly the birds were a pretty ordinary lot. There were an occasional Pied Wagtail ...
... and Grey Heron to bring variety to the usual Mallards and Black-Headed Gulls.
Cormorants and Mute Swans made a black and white contrast.
There were the inevitable Egyptian Geese.
However, there were two interesting sights. An enormous Great Black-Backed Gull stood on the shore of the Thames at Chiswick, with a Lesser Black-Back next to it to give an impression of its size. These birds have a wingspan of 5ft 6in (1.7m).
There was a surprising number of Teal. Here are a few of them, but they were present along a mile of the shore.
Despite the horrible wet and windy weather, hardy rowers were out on the Thames, chivvied by coaches from the ease of motor boats.
Chiswick Mall is a motley collection of houses, some of them dating from the 18th century. It is a desirable and expensive location despite frequent flooding at spring tides.
Plaques along the way record among other things the construction of the first working electric telegraph by Sir Francis Ronalds in 1816. Needless to say, his invention was rejected by Sir John Barrow, Secretary at the Admiralty, as being 'wholly unnecessary'.
Although the wire. which was made of iron, was eight miles long it didn't go anywhere: it was strung back and forth across Ronalds's garden as this contemporary print shows.
A small artistic community included William Morris. This plaque is to Edward Johnston, designer of the font still used by Transport for London for all signs on the Underground. It actually uses his font, which on first glance looks rather like the well known Gill Sans, which indeed it influenced, but note the curly lower case L added for legibility. The related font used for British road signs also has a letter like this.
Houseboats at Chiswick Pier.
I crossed the river on to the south bank at Barnes railway bridge, which has a footway that you can see in this picture.
The bridge was designed by Edward Andrews and opened in 1895. It's made of wrought iron, and was a replacement for an earlier structure of 1849 by Joseph Locke made of cast iron, which was abandoned in the wake of the Tay Bridge disaster of 1879 which made all cast iron structures suspect (readers will know of William McGonagall's immortal poem on the event -- he was much mocked but he was a genuine poet of the people).
Locke's bridge was actually perfectly sound and is still standing though unused. Not knowing the history at the time, I neglected to photograph it, but there's a picture here.
I returned via the Leg o' Mutton nature reserve where there was little to see, just some Coots and a flock of Long-Tailed Tits which were too high in the trees to photograph. However, there was a Robin to add a final bit of colour to a grey day.
Can see why it is known as the largest Gull species, towers a LBBG with ease.
ReplyDeleteSeems a bit harsh on William to be labelled the worst poet in English language, that was a good poem. Even if it was about death and a bridge, he made it enjoyable to read.
I have his complete works. To be fair, he seldom reaches that level.
DeleteAmazing entry, once again, with more than a dash of the local chronicle and the guide. Is there any literary genre and subgenre you haven't perfected?
ReplyDeleteIsn't this the first GBB of the season? I have never seen one from up close (all I have seen were some distance away), but they must be a fearsome sight.
Tinúviel
I've seen a Greater Black-Back closer than that, on the posts at Peter Pan. Their body is the size of a large Egyptian Goose, and then they unfurl their mighty wings. Their flight is heavy-looking: it's like watching a bomber.
DeleteInteresting to see some ancient shots of an area I know well as I have done WeBS counts from the south side of the river between Barnes & Putney for over 30 years as well as regularly walked between Hammersmith & Chiswick in my younger years.
ReplyDeleteOutside of summer Teal are common in sections & are the second most numerous duck after the ubiquitous Mallard. Numbers usually peak between 100-200 birds though last month's count only had 57 birds.
Small numbers of Gadwall (peaking in the new year), particularly in the Fulham Reach section & Tufted Duck are also usually seen on this part of the river. Other duck species are only occasional here.
Yes, apart from the Mallards there were some Tufted Ducks, but not above 20 in all. No Gadwall as far as I could see, I was probably too far upstream.
ReplyDeleteThank you. This was the part of the river I was familiar with when I was in London regularly on charity business. Last visit was 2016 and I remember inconvenient bridge closures then. I was a frequent visitor to to the WWT wetland centre and walked both banks en route from Putney. Also visited the Leg o' Mutton reserve and saw nesting common terns.
ReplyDeleteI did get pictures of the nesting Common Terns a few years ago. The trees bordering the reservoir make it difficult, but there is a place on the east shore where you can scramble down the bank to water level and get a more or less unobstructed view.
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